By Allen Hamrick
Our state of West Virginia is full of history that can be seen and experienced by hiking, biking, driving and so forth. No matter how or where you travel, there has been someone that has left their footprints and stories behind. As generations pass, the stories fall more and more into the shadows and pages of dust covered, unread books and distant memory. Nature seems to take back and cover up the history that once was fresh, vibrant and alive to the time before man set foot on its soil. Weeds, trees and land shifts all but consume a time that once was and leaves the passers by a faint sense of what happened here. The houses were once full of children who never knew what life was like beyond the community they lived in; they had it all. Men and women chiseled out a life that was self sustaining, never needing for anything but the hard work it took to survive. Music and singing filled the mountain hollows, and nothing but the sounds of mountain living was ever heard.
Very few, if any, are still around that remembers those days before the train smoke filled the valleys and the virgin woods became extinct, changing the very landscape that once was West Virginia. That, too, is a part of the rich history we now look for and want to be a part of in some way, even if it’s just a story. The chestnut tree was so huge that no sun ever hit the forest floor under them due to their immense canopies. Those trees, like most, went down so that the changing times could move forward. Rail, lumber and coal towns were raised along tracks and water sources and soon began to flourish as people began a migration from the mountains to the towns – times were changing. Those changing time also came to an end in the 1960’s as mills and coal mines shut down, rails became silent and the sweet scent of smoke from a boiler full of coal was no more. It was all gone, and soon the towns of Widen, Swandale, Adair, Avoca, Cressmont, Greathouse Branch and others became nothing but forests once again. Widen is the only exception as a few people still call it home.
Clay County was once a great thriving community with huge stores, plenty of action and the railway was its life blood. The tracks that once carried tons of coal, lumber and families lay in ruin until those that cared enough to resurrect it changed its outcome. In recent years, a few folks decided to take it upon themselves to try and restore a small part of what once was. If rediscovered, those forgotten paths and journeys that people have walked, lived and created on will live again in some form or another.
For many years, people made a life on 18.6 miles of track known as the Buffalo Creek and Gauley and the Elk River Coal and Lumber rails. No book could contain the stories told of those days. Many families that live in this county today have ancestors that either worked during those years or lived along some part of it. Our history needs to be remembered, and some worked diligently to make it happen. Foremost is Roger Nutter who took the first plunge into bringing the abandoned track back to life. He ran a jitney hauling many people up and along the tracks from Dundon to Swandale, and events were held to raise money for the cause of saving our history. Roger, like many others, passed into history and left the work to Arlie Hall who then ran it until he could no longer. Many volunteers picked up the banner and started a waterfall of effort toward saving the track. Mitch DeBoard and the BDA, along with others who donated wood and time, helped rebuild; without their hard work, negotiations, knocking down doors and demanding something be done, the Buffalo Creek Recreational Trail would have never got underway.
Rail cars were built and the track was once again alive with the cheers of people and history was again being told. Story tellers were involved in the trips, as well as stops for the passengers at Adair and Devil’s Sawmill, a little known waterfall at the time. It was a great ride and a small store was moved in to sell local crafts to the visitors. We didn’t think too much of our burning legs or the buckets of sweat as our senses were on overload by the clickety clack of the wheels running on the track and the scent of old creosote that made your mind wander to a time long gone but still in reach of your imagination. However, as with all good things, they come to an end. A couple of years ago as FEMA took over reconstruction of the track after a flood caused great damage. Once the job was complete, DeBoard and others decided that it was time to let the ride go to the next level of operations. The WV Rail Authority got involved, calls were made and bids were taken from companies that were interested.
The winning bid was awarded to Rail Explorers who have seven different locations around the country, a great following of riders and are the nation’s largest rail bike operators. Mary Joy Lu, CEO and Co-Founder, as well as Co-Owner Alex Catchpoole, have been super excited about being in Clay and giving West Virginia another venue for tourists. They have amazing electric assisted cars that anyone can ride with very little effort.
The official grand opening ribbon cutting was on Friday, June 7, with Governor Jim Justice and Baby Dog making an official appearance with words of encouragement. Other officials were there for the event and spoke of their involvement in the process and wishes of nothing but success for the venture. The ride will once again bring access to the history of this county and its people. For Clay County, this is a major shot in the arm needed to keep up with the changing times. With tourism being a huge part of this state, Clay County can now get a spoon in the soup with the help of Rail Explorers. They seem to be a great bunch of people and want only the best for this business venture. The ride is a twelve mile no sweat tour that departs Dundon, spins around just after Sand Fork Bridge and sets the riders back towards Dundon. Riders pass through the towns of Avoca, Adair, and of course, the newest addition to the WV waterfall tour – Devil’s Sawmill.
Devil’s Sawmill is a truly unique and beautiful waterfall that its very name makes a person wonder about its history. The waterfall has been called Devil’s Sawmill, Bears Leap Falls, Devil’s Eye Falls and Buffalo Creek Falls, according to my research. Devil’s Sawmill is the name that has stuck for as long as anyone can remember. Even the generation that lived during the time never knew just why it was called Devil’s Sawmill. There are stories that have been told. In one version, it was called Devil’s Sawmill because long before the towns there was a sawmill that set just above it near the upper parts of the fall where it crested. Called Devil’s Sawmill because of the danger of it, a person or animal could be walking in the woods and could walk over it before they knew what happened the way that it was concealed at the time and thus would go to the devil, hence Devil’s Sawmill. This is but one version but seems like the most likely to be correct. Nobody that I have ever talked to knew who operated the small mill or whether it was a hand mill or steam; they just knew that it was part of the landscape. According to Jerry Stover, President of the Clay County Historical Society, it was once a stopping point for the American Pigeon who came in flocks to the waterfall and sometimes darkened the sky due to the mass of birds. Others have tried climbing it to test their skills but came up short. At least one is remembered to have fallen over it and was hanging by their fingers before being rescued.
There are a thousand stories about people’s time at the waterfall, from playing in its rush of water to its necessity for the people living there at the time. It was a place that was just part of everyday for the folks who lived there. Today, it is a welcome stop on the WV waterfall tour. The falls are a great place for photographs as it is one of the most scenic waterfalls in our state. Buffalo Creek itself is a scenic marvel that meanders through our hills with fishing opportunities like no other. The ride on the Rail Explorer cars is something to be remembered, and for now, it is nonstop until Sand Fork Bridge due to safety concerns around the falls. Take the time to ride the rail. Our ancestors rode the Iron Age and set the stage for the Golden Age, so let’s not disappoint or forget them. The track is also a shared path for hikers, bikers and horseback riding but is off limits to motorized vehicles.
The Rail Explorer trip will be a top destination for tourism in our area which will no doubt benefit Clay County with the trickledown effect or if you’re a business owner. When all the planning of future events is completed, this will be a trail that Clay County and West Virginia can be proud of. Many thanks go out to the Rail Explorers Company and all that was before them for making it possible to relive our history with the push of a pedal. Get your reservation as they are filling up fast. Riders can choose quad bikes and tandem bikes. Go to RailExplorers.net or call 877-833-8588 to reserve, or simply go over to the depot between Thursday and Sunday and reserve your ride. Bikes are $160 for the quad bikes and $80 for the tandem bikes unless booked under a special rate. Don’t miss it.
